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The academy News

Regional Focus: Franschhoek, ZA

3/24/2020

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While working on some wine study this week (which has not been exactly easy with all of the distractions and works schedule getting tossed about due to the global pandemic), I landed on South Africa, and specifically Franschhoek. I got here due to the fact that I posted a Survey on Facebook and asked folks to vote on which wine I should open and discuss from my cellar. I gave several choices - all from the 2001 vintage.

Why 2001? Well, I had 19 stuck in my head for some reason, and so I went back 19 years to see what I had about. It turns out there are quite a few items in my cellar from that vintage - I was working as a sales rep at the time, and I had the opportunity to accumulate quite a bit of wine from suppliers, personal purchases and the odd sample that never got used. Of the selections offered up for opening were a Barolo from La Spinetta, a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon from Ladera Winery, and the Cabernet Sauvignon from Boekenhoutskloof Winery from the Franschhoek region of the Western Cape in South Africa (ZA). The winner, with 2/3 of the votes, was the Boekenhoutskloof, and was it ever good.
The key points on this wine are: it is from the 2001 vintage, a vintage that was hot and very low yielding - in fact the lowest yields since the 1988 vintage for the most part. Additionally, Boekenhoutskloof had only been making wine for about 5 years, and they made one of the highest regarded wines of the vintage. This wine scored very well in the press and there were many comments from reviewers that indicated long aging was ahead for this wine. As I held this for 19 years or so I would agree upon opening it that there was indeed a lot to be hopeful in this wine. Those predicting agability were definitely correct in their predictions. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 27 months in French Oak barrels.

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 Guide to wineries in the the Franschhoek:
1 - Boekenhoutskloof
2 - Boschendal
3 - Anthonij Rupert / Cape of Good Hope
4 - Lynx
5 - Topiary
6 - Akkerdal
7 - La Chataigne
8 - Le Manoir de Brendel
9 - Elekehof
10 - Moreson
11 - La Motte
12 - Leopard's Leap
13 - Maison
14 - Four Paws
15 - Rickety Bridge
16 - Grande Provence
17 - Franschhoek Bellingham
18 - La Chaumiere
19 - Mullineux
20 - Mont Rochelle
21 - La Couronne
22 - La Bri
23 - Haut Espoir
24 - Stony Brook
25 - Holden Manz
26 - Colmant
27 - Black Elephant
28 - Haut Cabriere
29 - La Petite Ferm
30 - House of GM & Aherns
31 - La Petitie Vigne
32 - Cape Chamonix
33 - Dieu Donne
34 - My Wyn

The basics on Franschhoek
  • Part of the Western Cape Wine Region, Franschhoek is a stand-alone wine District.
  • Even though it is technically part of the Coastal Region, it is generally considered one of the more inland parts of that region, mainly due to the fact that it is well protected by mountains on three sides and does not get direct influences from ocean breezes - Groot Drakenstein, Klein Drakenstein, and Simonsberg mountains. Cooler growing areas come from altitude rather than primarily weather.
  • Was originally settled by French Huguenots in the late 1600s
  • Water for irrigation comes down from the mountains and collects in the Berg River Dam and from the Berg River
  • Lots of French heritage can be seen when visiting here - it is still a thing 400 years later!
  • The region is fairly warm during the summer / harvest season, but rainfall is fairly high (around 1000mm annually)
  • The Valley is home to some of South Africa’s noble cultivars. Top whites such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon and Chenin Blanc, to full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Merlot.
  • The region also produces extraordinary Méthode Cap Classiques sparkling wines, which can all be enjoyed during a trip along the Franschhoek MCC Route. Franschhoek now has an internal Prestige designation for top level MCC.
  • A quality wine producing region with boutique wineries. Some producers like to stretch the limits of the Franschhoek wine region, as this is a cool address to be associated with. You will find producers in Paarl and even toward Stellenbosch that might be on the Franschhoek Wine Trail.
  • As you might expect this is a region known for its cuisine and restaurants as well as its wine. You might find some French influences everywhere.
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SPIRITS BASICS: IRISH WHISKEY

3/15/2020

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What exactly is Irish Whiskey and how is it different from other whiskies?
Irish whiskey (with the E), is a whiskey from Ireland, and the Irish are generally credited with inventing modern whiskey…
  • The name Whiskey is from the original Gaelic words “Uisce beathe / aisage beathe”, and refers to the “water of life”.
  • Irish whiskey was one of the earliest distilled spirits in Europe, dating to the 12th Century
  • The main distinction from whiskies such as Scotch is that most Irish whiskey is distilled 3 times – making it smoother in style, and does not use peat in the kilning process.  This means there is no smoke or “peated” aromas.  Exceptions to these rules do exist.
  • At one time (around 1900), Irish whiskey was the most popular whiskey in the world
  • Ireland’s fight for independence from Britain, World War I, and Prohibition in US, led to a mass decline in demand, and therefore production.
  • Things declined so much so that by the 1960s, remaining brands had to consolidate in order to survive.  By the 1970s, there were only two distilleries in Ireland: Midleton in County Cork (south), and Bushmills in Antrim (north).
  • Since the late 1990s and early 2000s, Irish Whiskey has made a steady return to sales and popularity.  The number of new and recommissioned distilleries has followed suit.
  •  Today, production levels are increasing steadily and the market is clearly growing – new distilleries are opening with many more planned in the coming years.
  • Currently, there are 24 distilleries in Ireland in operation or under construction with an additional 40 or more in the planning stages - there were only 2 in 1966!
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Key to the Distillery Map of Ireland:

1. Dingle, 2012
2. West Cork, 2003
3. Clonakilty, 2016
4. New Midleton, 1975
5. Blackwater, 2015
6. Ballykeefe, 2017
7. Waterford, 2016
8. Walsh Whiskey, 2016
9. Powerscourt, 2018
10. Dublin (4 distilleries):
  • Dublin Liberties (2018)
  • Teeling (2015)
  • Pease Lyons (2017)
  • Roe & Co. (2019)
11. Tullamore, 2014
12. Kilbeggan, 1757/2007
13. Connacht, 2014
14. Shed, 2014
15. Slane, 2018
16. Great Northern, 2015
17. Cooley, 1987
18. Killowen, 2019
19. Rademon Estate, 2015
20. Echlinville, 2013
21. Bushmills, 1784

Defining Irish Whiskey, today:
There are four categories of labeling terms related to the production of Irish Whiskey. These terms have been more clearly defined over the years, and are in line with the EU regulations of protected status you might find with other whiskey, wine and similar products.
Some of the basic production requirements include:
  • Must be made on the Island of Ireland, and includes both the Republic and Northern Ireland
  • Minimum 40% abv
  • Three years aging in oak barrels, with certain size limits imposed on those barrels
  • Limits on the grains used as well as other ingredients, very similar to Scotch regulations
The four categories of Irish Whiskey are:
  • Blended Irish Whiskey – this is the most common style of whiskey, and is a blend of Grain and/or Pot Still whiskies, and can be from more than one distillery. Many larger brand productions are often of this style, ie: Jameson, Tullamore Dew, Powers, Black Bush
  • Grain / Single Grain – distilled in a column still and made either from a mix of grains, or from one single grain (the grains though would be a combination of malted and raw grains).
  • Single Pot Still – distilled in a single distillery, and in pot stills, only. Look for Yellow Spot 12y and Redbreast 15y as classic examples.
  • Single Malt – distilled in a single distillery, and only from malted barley.
Tasting Irish Whiskey:  What is important to look for when tasting the Irish? 
Traditionally the most distinguishing characteristic of Irish Whiskey would be - Balance.  Often the aspect defining the style of Irish whiskey is the fact that it is triple distilled. This is not a legal requirement, but it is a technique used to create a smooth and elegant whiskey – different from Scotch and American whiskey styles.
When tasting Irish Whiskey, refer back to the label and check the category. Blended whiskies will have a lighter, more delicate feel on the palate (contributing to their popularity), while Single Pot Stilled and Single Malt styles will be more unique and reflect the region and distillery characteristics, essentially making a richer and deeper flavored whiskey.
  • Nose: Fruity. Typically, highly scented, with apple and herbs, delicate grain and wood tones and an underlying honey character.
  • Palate: Smooth. In your mouth, Irish whiskey should be soft, smooth at first and then drying on the finish. Sweet grainy flavors will evolve to slightly more spice tones.
  • Finish: Balanced. Flavors of vanilla and sweet spice should follow to the finish.  Often caramel, cumin and balsa wood.
  • Conclusion:  At their core these whiskeys should be balanced and aromatic. Blends that include Pot Stilled distillate will the most robust and aromatic. Longer aged whiskey will build deeper character and flavors, showing rich caramel and wood tones, and very smooth texture.
What about Peat?
Unlike Scotch Whisky, Irish Whiskey typically does not involve the use of Peat, and as such it is rare to come across a Peated style – although they do exist. Look for Coonemara Peated Pot Still as the most widely available of this style.
What about wood and finishing?
Oak barrels from the Sherry and Port Regions were common vessels for storage, aging and transport throughout much of the history of Irish Whiskey and whiskey in general. Today, most Irish whiskey will be aged initially in used Bourbon barrels, with some being aged and/or finished in ex-Sherry, Marsala and Madeira casks. Each of these styles will impart a unique aspect to the spirit. Look for the Spots whiskeys by Mitchell & Sons, and taste side by side, as these are done in a variety of barrels.
What about Aged Whiskey Statements?
Similar to other regional age statements on whiskey, Irish Whiskey with an age statement means that no part of the blend or bottling may be younger than the age expressed on the label. Some of the better examples to look for will be: Bushmills 16y, Kilbeggan 15y, Jameson 18y, Powers 12y. Some of these whiskies are becoming short in supply as older stocks run low, but time will allow for them to catch up.

If you would ike to download this information as a consolidated staff training sheet. Click Here.
For an Irish Whiskey tasting sheet prepared by New England Wine Academy. Click Here.
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    Brian Mitchell runs The New England Wine Academy, and is responsible for the content of this blog. With over 25 years of drinks industry experience, Brian has learned a few things, but everyday he is learning more. This blog helps to bring that knowledge to you.

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